MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_01C56DC9.874FB890" This document is a Single File Web Page, also known as a Web Archive file. If you are seeing this message, your browser or editor doesn't support Web Archive files. Please download a browser that supports Web Archive, such as Microsoft Internet Explorer. ------=_NextPart_01C56DC9.874FB890 Content-Location: file:///C:/0EC446F3/Cleaningproductingredients.htm Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Back To Basics

Back To Basics<= span style=3D'color:#003333'>

 

 

Why return to basic cleaning products used years = ago? Here are several reasons that you might consider.

·         Simplicit= y. Look at the number of cans and bottles of cleani= ng products around your home. Could you get by with less? =

·         Economics= . Could you save money by buying fewer products? <= o:p>

·         Environme= nt. Would some safe, basic ingredients do the job? <= o:p>

Consider your own standards for cleaning. Other t= han basic sanitary practices we must follow to maintain good health, nothing = is set in stone. There are many possibilities on the continuum from perfecti= on to chaos. Are your standards reasonable given your family's lifestyle, values, and resources such as time, energy, and money? Think about what's truly important to you and your family. Choose and use, or refuses produc= ts accordingly.

To choose the best product for the job, you must = know the most common ingredients of each product and compare their performance= and safety. The common ingredients are abrasives, acids, alkalies, and bleaches.

 

 

= Abrasives

Abrasives wear off dirt by rubbing. They scour off hardened food particles, grease, tarnish, and stains. They are found in cleansers. Sandpaper, plastic and nylon meshes, and steel wool are also abrasives. Some metal cleaners contain a fine abrasive like silica. Whiti= ng and rottenstone can be found at hardware stores.

Caution:= Coarse abrasives feel rough and gritty. Regular use = of harsh abrasives scratches shiny finishes of sinks, bathtubs, and kitchen appliances. When surfaces are dull and rough, they soil faster and stain deeper.

 

 

= Acids

Some acids remove hard= water deposits. Some remove rust stains. Others take away discoloration from aluminum, br= ass, bronze, and copper. Very mild acid: Vinegar removes hard water deposits f= rom glassware, rust stains from sinks, and tarnish from brass and copper. It = also counteracts alkaline oven cleaners. Lemon juice has much the same use as vinegar. Cream of tartar sweetens coffee makers and brightens aluminum.

 

 

Alkalies=

Alkalies remove oily dirt without rubbing and vary in str= ength. Very mild alkali: Baking soda mixed with water cleans glass, wall tile, a= nd porcelain enamels. This solution also removes coffee and tea stains from china and plastic dishes. Moderate alkalies: Household ammonia containing 5 to 10 percent ammonia gas in water cleans kitchen range burners and ovens, windows, and mirrors. Sudsy ammonia has = soap or detergent added. Borax is a cleaner for woodwork, walls, and sinks.

Note: Bo= rax, like ammonia, is toxic when ingested.

 

 

= Bleaches

Bleaches remove stains and whiten fabrics. The ch= emical sodium hypochlorite may be among the list of label ingredients for a chlorine bleach. Chlorine bleach disinfects. It wi= ll set rust stains. Oxygen (or non-chlorine) bleaches release active oxygen as t= he bleaching agent. Oxygen bleaches can be used on many colorfast fabrics. Sodium perborate and hydrogen peroxide are two kinds of oxygen bleach.

Caution:= Never use chlorine bleach with ammonia, toilet bowl cleaners, dishwashing deter= gent or rust remover because a poisonous gas may be produced.

 

 

Handling Cleaning Products Safely<= /span>

 

Most cleaning products used in homes today are dangerous only when misused. Store mixtures in labeled containers with re= cipe attached. The most frequent misuse is accidental swallowing by curious children. Never transfer cleaners= into soft drink bottles or other containers that may seem harmless to children. The poorest place to store household cleaners is under the kitchen sink.<= /span>

If it is necessary to take a child or adult to the hospital or a physician's office because of an accident, be sure you take= the container of the product that caused the injury with you. The information= on the label will help the physician give prompt and proper treatment. If it= 's a homemade mixture, take the recipe.

 

 

General Rules for Managing Toxic Household Products

 

  • Select the least toxic products for your home.
  • Buy only as much= as you will use.
  • Read the label. = It will list ingredients; instructions for use, storage, and disposal; = and hazards associated with use.
  • Dispose of toxic w= aste as recommended. Call your county health department for specific information about hazardous household waste collection days and other disposal options.

 

 

Preventive Measures

 

Regular home maintenance will reduce the amount of cleaning products and potentially hazardous household products needed in = the home. For example, roaches and other insects are discouraged by good housekeeping practices. Try these cleaning tips:

·         Store food in sealed containers.

·         Wipe up spil= ls.

·         Use a flea c= omb (outdoors) or bathe pets frequently to control fleas. Vacuum carpets frequently and discard the vacuum bag each time if fleas or other insects have been a problem. Restrict pets from areas that are difficult to clean= to prevent the spread of fleas in the home.

·         Avoid baked-= on stains in the oven by wiping up after each use.

·         Air out the = house occasionally to avoid using chemical air fresheners.

·         Mildew spore= s are present in air at all times, ready to grow with adequate moisture and temperature. Keep down moisture levels in the bathroom by ventilating wit= h an exhaust fan or using a small fan to move air with a window opened slightl= y. Use a squeegee on shower walls. Wipe down the shower curtain or spread it= out to dry.

·         Purchase met= al or plastic screens for drains to prevent hair or food clogs in the pipes. Put fat and grease in a container instead of down the drain.

·         Pour a kettl= e of boiling water into each drain once a week or so, or mix 1/2 cup washing soda with= a gallon of warm water. Follow with boiling water.

The following recipes* for cleaners have been collected over time. They include cleaners that do an adequate job with an average amount of effort. All combine generic ingredients, many of which you may have on hand in yo= ur home.


* WSU Cooperative Extension assumes no responsibi= lity and disclaims any liability for any injury or damage resulting from the u= se or effect of any product or information appearing in this publication. No endorsements are intended or implied.

 

 

= Sink/Tub Cleaners

Baking soda and a sponge will remove regular soap= scum and soil.

To whiten: Fill sink or tub with lukewarm water. Add some chlorine b= leach, and let stand for a while. Chlorine bleach does not remove rust stains.

To remove iron/rust stains: Rub with a lemon or lemon juice, or white vinega= r.

For a very stained or discolored sink or tub: Mix cream of tartar and hydrogen peroxide to a p= aste and scrub vigorously using a small, stiff brush.

To remove copper stains (green): Use soap suds containing ammonia, or salt and vi= negar, or salt and the juice of a lemon.

To remove lime deposits: Use lemon juice or vinegar.

 

 

= Window and Mirror Cleaners=

Try one of the following solutions:

·         4 tablespoons ammonia to 1 quart warm water (for heavy, greasy soil) =

·         2 tablespoons vinegar to 1 quart warm water (for hard water spots)

 

 

= Hand Cleaner

Rub hands together wit= h baby oil, salad oil, or mineral oil. Wash with soap and water. Safely removes = oil paint or wood stain from skin.

 

 

= Remove Drain Clogs<= /p>

Try these methods:

·         Open the dra= in pipe at the trap with a wrench. (The trap is the U-shaped section of the pipe which holds a small amount of water). Remove clogs of hair, grease, or fo= od. This is much cheaper and safer than using commercial products.

·         Rent, purcha= se, or borrow a plumber's snake to remove clogs located beyond the trap.

 

 

= Drain Cleaners

1 cup baking soda
1 cup salt
1/4 cup cream of tartar.

Mix the three ingredients. Pour 1/4 cup of mixtur= e into the drain. Follow with 1 cup boiling water. Let it stand, then flush with water. Store extra mixture in a covered container.

1/2 cup baking soda
1/2 cup vinegar
1/2 cup boiling water

Mix ingredients. Pour into drain, and let stand. = Then flush with water.

 

 

= Floor Wax Remover<= /p>

3/4 cup dry detergent
1 gallon hot water
1/3 cup ammonia

Spread on small area and let stand a few minutes,= then scrub to remove old wax. Rinse floor several times. Let floor dry complet= ely before re-waxing. Provide plenty of cross ventilation.<= /p>

 

 

= Brass or Copper Cleaner

Wash article first. Sp= rinkle salt on surface, pour on some vinegar, and rub lightly with large soft
cloth. Or make a paste of equal parts salt, vinegar, and flour, and rub u= ntil clean. Wash in hot, sudsy water and dry or it will retarnish rapidly.

 

 

= Furniture Polish

Combine equal parts of= fresh lemon juice and olive oil. Apply with clean cloth and rub briskly.

 

 

= Dustless Cloth

To gather rather than = scatter dust, spread several drops of lemon oil on the inside of a glass jar with= a screw-top lid. Put cloth (soft rag will do) in jar and close tightly. Dust cloth can be stored in jar between uses or washings.

 

 

= Steam Iron Cleaner=

1/3 cup vinegar
1 teaspoon baking soda

Combine ingredients. (Mixture fizzes.) Pour into = iron, set for "steam" with the steam button on. The process works best when the iron is down, resting on the soleplate. Put it on a cooling rack= to prevent fires. After about 30 minutes, or when= the water is nearly gone, empty residue, and fill iron with clean water. When first using, watch for some dirt to spit out!

Note: Ch= eck with the iron manufacturer before using this solution to clean your iron. White vinegar is corrosive to metal and the use of it may void the warranty.

 

 

= Upholstery Shampoo

2 teaspoons mild detergent
1 teaspoon water softener (like Calgon
= *)
1 pint warm water

Clean furniture with vacuum or brush. Place ingre= dients in mixing bowl and beat to a dry foam. Test fo= am on small, inconspicuous area. Apply foam with a sponge to small area of furniture. Use a brisk, circular motion. Rub until foam disappears. Apply fresh foam and continue. Overlap each area. Rinse the fabric with a damp sponge, but don't get fabric too wet. Dry rapidly in breezy area.


* Trade names have been used to simplify informat= ion; no endorsement is intended.

 

 

= Disinfectant

To disinfect food preparation surfaces, use 1 tablespoon chlorine bleach to 1 gallon cool water. (Cool water keeps the = chlorine in the bleach from evaporating.) Ventilate the area. As a disinfectant for other purposes, follow the label directions or call your local health department.

Note: If= you need to use a disinfectant, check the product label. Disinfectants are co= nsidered pesticides, and as such, must be registered by the EPA. The registration number will be printed on the label.

 

 

= Uses for Whiting

Whiting, or calcium ca= rbonate, is a mild abrasive. Uses include cleaning and polishing chrome, chromium, silver, and porcelain. It also removes metal marks on stoneware. Sprinkle whiting on surface. Rub gently in one direction only with a soft, damp cl= oth. Rinse and dry. Always test on an inconspicuous spot to determine effectiveness.

 


 

 

3D"WSU

Prepared by Chris Koehler, County Agent, Washington State University Cooperative Extension, Spokane County,= and Doris Torkelson, Area Agent, Washington State= University Cooperative Extension, Grays Harbor County.

Adapted from "Creative Cleaning" by Louise Freeman, Extension Specialist, F.C.Y.; Universit= y of Massachusetts Cooperative Extension; "Selection and Use of Home Clea= ning Products" edited by Marguerite Schroeder, Extension Housing Speciali= st, Washington State University Cooperative Extension; "Alternatives That Are Relatively Free of Toxic Effects" by Marie S. Hammer, Extension = Home Environment Specialist, University of Florida, Gains= ville; and "Consumer Alternatives to Hazardous Household Products," Cornell Cooperative Extension of Nassau County.

Issued by Washington State Unive= rsity Cooperative Extension and the U.S. Department of Agriculture in furtheran= ce of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Cooperative Extension programs and policies are consistent with federal and state laws and regulations on nondiscrimination regarding race, color, gender, national origin, religio= n, age, disability, and sexual orientation. Evidence of noncompliance may be reported through your local Cooperative Extension office. Trade names have been used to simplify information; no endorsement is intended. Published September 1993. Subject codes 376, 600. A. EB1758

 

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